In this video Roger Bisby demonstrates how to level a floor with self levelling compound for the best results as well as talking through how to get the best out of latex modified self-levelling sub-floor compounds.
In this example Roger uses Bostik’s Cempolatex to level a floor with self levelling compound, but the theory applies to most self levelling screeds and you’ll see that it’s not just a simple case of throwing the mixture on the floor and retiring while it spreads itself out.
– Protein-free suitable for use in hygiene and food preparation areas
– Flexible, rapid setting formula
– Self levelling
– Levels and fills
– Interior use
Uses: Concrete, sand/cement screeds, quarry tiles, rigid timber floors, stone, brick and terrazzo floors, asphalt floors, floor topping and concrete re-surfacer, patching.
Coverage: 5m2 per 3mm per 25kg
Find out more about Cempolatex at: www.bostik.co.uk
I’ve tried using Cempolatex 1 pack a few times now and still can’t achieve that smooth runny mix. I can’t work out where I’m going wrong as I’ve tried various methods of hand mix slow feed to dumping half a bag in using a mixing paddle which seemed to give the best result so far. The only thing I haven’t tried is to rest the mix after mixing. Is this where I’m going wrong? It doesn’t mention it on the bag but picked up on it on one of the videos. The only other option I can see is adding more water which I wanted to avoid. Any help welcomed
You need to measure the water exactly and make sure it is cold water. I the summer I use water from the fridge because it prolongs the setting time giving you more time to let it rest a while.
Always add the powder to the water. If you use an electric whisk the first 3/4 of the bag will turn into a very runny liquid so you just need to whisk out any lumps. Then sprinkle the last bit in and whisk, making sure you get the whisk around the bottom of the bucket. That is where the lumps tend to lie. If the water is cold and the day isn’t too hot you will then be able to give the compound 3 or 4 minutes before pouring.
The only other tip is to use spiked roller and just run across the compound and then leave it. There is a point where it firms up and messing with it then does more harm than good.
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i have a bedroom floor that has Marley tiles over what appear to be a bitumen adhesive. the tiles are breaking up, and the whole floor tilts by about 1/2 inch. there is no visible crack, and it just looks like it was bodged when it was laid.. The Marly tiles even go under the skirting board on the low side of the floor….so….levelling compound. what do you suggest I do about the bitumastic adhesive? is it OK to pour the leveller right on top?
Hi there. I have a 16m square kitchen floor to do. I have two three 30lt buckets. I only want to skim the concrete as it’s a level floor but very slightly undulating. How should I do it without getting ridges between bucket loads?